I chose Talens Van Gogh Ultramarine and Burnt umber because I have both in tubes, so it’s easier to get a large amount of a dark, intense mixture.My favorites are mixes of blue and brown. You can mix black using many different complementary dark colors.If you want to know more about this, I’ll link a good explanation by Mind of Watercolor. The interesting thing with watercolor is that you can actually get darker blacks by mixing several transparent colors, than by using the common black pigments.While I often use it for shadows in my sketchbooks and journals, it’s too blue and too weak to act as a true black in my paintings. Payne’s Gray is a popular convenience mix of Ivory Black pigment and an intense blue or violet pigment, which results in a very moody, cool dark color.But overall it’s not good compared to other mediums. My test places it at about the same level of darkness as chromatic black (below), so it’s great if you absolutely want to stick with watercolor. It has the same neutral tone as Mars Black, but no granulation and is it transparent, which is better for layering. Update (not on video): I purchased a new black paint called Spinel Gray by Talens Rembrandt, which is made of an uncommon pigment PBk26.It’s a bit more even, but much warmer in tone, and not noticeably darker than Mars Black. I remembered I had an old tube of Louvre Ivory Black, which is a non-granulating pigment, so I tried that as well just in case.Getting a perfectly flat wash requires heavyweight watercolor paper that won’t buckle, and carefully applying many light washes (at least 5-6 layers).So I gave it another go, this time using Canson XL watercolor paper. My first attempt was really bad, after two layers it’s still pretty light.I knew going in that watercolor is not the best medium because it takes a lot of effort to get a dark, deep surface, I just wanted to see how it compared to others.Iron oxide pigment called Mars Black by Roman Szmal.I used black watercolor paint on my painting Mind Patterns I (I can’t remember which one though, but it was probably Ivory Black). I’m testing different mediums, not variations between brands. Different brands have comparable products. I use student-grade or artist-grade art materials that are available to me in the European Union. I don’t have every option in existence, but I don’t want to go buy more stuff. I’ll compare the mediums I already have at home. If one layer doesn’t produce a perfectly even surface because of my shoddy technique, I want to give it a fair chance so I’ll do an extra layer to even things out. I’ll use 2 layers at most because I’m not a patient person. Ease of application – the less time and effort it takes to apply, the better.Most matte – the less reflective the surface, the better because matte color is easier to photograph and scan.Even coverage – I’m looking for a flat black with no visible texture or strokes.We notice if it’s lighter than jet-black, we notice the sheen… All those features get emphasized when scanning and photographing our work. But when applied to a solid surface, it’s easy to see the texture of the medium and uneven coverage. When you use it for thin outlines, it will look dark and deep pretty much no matter what you use.
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